Weekend April Swell

Sat and Sun spent in the water…woke up way too late Sat arvo, got to the bay and wolfed down holok food as fast as possible and hit the water…finally the weather is warm enough for the wetsuit to come off. Feels good until you remember friction rash exists.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BE0aQXDF8zI/

 

Woke up on Sunday and did a repeat with M and W…this bus with a full body ONeill ad pulled in when we left. The commercialization of surf worldwide continues…

https://www.instagram.com/p/BE4-d6GF8zD/

 

PS Waves were chest and clean, had some really long rides both sides of the bay…not so much the usual overpowered closeouts. April went out with some swell…can’t complain bout that too much in the off season.